"Needed to replace my central heating pump and the isolating valves were in a bit of a state. Replaced them with these. Easy to fit and no leaks from screw threads or around valve adjustment lug. They look a well made quality product which I hope will last a long time."
"Gate valves of any kind are an absolute pain. Operating them every year to keep them from seizing is fanciful. So by the time I come to use them they're always seized and a waste of time.(hardwater area is probably significant). I've now replaced every gate valve with a ball valve and what a difference!. So when it came to fitting a new pump I looked for ball valves and found these Pegler valves at almost the same price as the 'economy' version. Obviously I can't yet comment on reliability but I'll guess they'll be fine - and won't seize or leak. Why do they still make gate valves I wonder? Then again why do they still make drain cocks that seize and leak instead of with a ball valve? Don't get me started on useless plumbing designs! Let me just praise these Pegler pump valves."
"Excellent quality valves. In contrast to those all my local Plumbers Merchants sold (and I tried them all) these have a full 22mm bore. Good thick rubber washers and a solid construction. I'll look for more of Pegler's stuff when I need more fittings.
It defeats me that any Plumbers merchant would sell fittings for 22mm pipe that have a 15mm bore. Only one of those in a section of 22m pipe renders the pipe obsolete. You might just as well have used 15mm pipe."
"Easy to fit and the rotating valve is much easier than the gate type valve (which usually ends up not closing fully or leaking) The rubber washers also seem better than those supplied with the cheaper valve."
"Just to add to the previous comment - any value in your heating system circuit (including valves on pumps that will aid a speedy replacement should you need to do one) should be serviced regularly in order ro make them work. In my experience the ball valves on a pupm connection are simpler to use as often the pump is in an awkward place, so having to make a 90 degree turn is easier than spinning the gate valve type. However, don't think that gate valves in other places are not good - I have several on my system and if you fully close them and open the when you start and stop your heating in autumn and spring, they will give you good service. Remeber to leave them fully open, but then do a full turn (clockwise usually to close) teh other way so that any limescale can be removed by opening fully. This way you don't get a jammed valve. The ball valves have an advantage here in that they usually work 360 degrees, allowing motion in both directions."
"If the cheaper "gate-valve" type have been fitted in the past & perhaps the central-heating system has not been maintained as well as it should have been, then one normally finds that when removing the old pump the valves do not close 100% & to avoid water-damage to the building fabric, the system has to be drained-down, thus making it a much bigger more costly job. So it is worth the extra to buy these ball-valve type that do normally isolate 100%."
"Had one of these installed for about a year. Turned the valve off to do some pump maintenance. then turned it back on and the valve spindle started leaking. Unlike a gate valve there is no way of adjusting the spindle."
"Initially thought they were good but 12 months later when changing the pump they both gushed water through the valve spindle. The old gate valve would only need a bit of ptfe around the spindle and and a quick tighten of the gland nut....cured. Can't do that with these though! Save your money and buy Gate Pump Valve."